The Nylon Sock Myth
Socks are part of our fundamental wardrobe, keeping our feet warm and cosy through the coldest parts of the year, as well as dry and protected during adventures up mountains, and in the grocery shops.
The humble sock has been with us through the ages; the oldest found being an Egyptian relic of around 1500 years old. Made of wool, the ancient sock not only proves that plant-dyed, colourful scrappy socks were a fashion statement back then, but also that they were worn with flip-flops,(the divided toe that gives room for a leather thong leaves us in little doubt!).
Sock construction has always been designed to give both protection and comfort to our feet, but it is the inherent effectiveness of the wool fibres, and how they are spun for socks, that enables these hard working wardrobe staples to be so reliable.
The Properties of Wool
The sheep that roam the mountains and lowlands around my dye shed are out in all weathers. From the balmy spring days that bring us the lambing season, filled with sunshine and blue bells, to the driving rains, hail storms and snow that denote our classic Welsh winters, they are out in the wild. Their fleece enables them to handle these conditions through the oil their skin produces, and the wool that covers them.
The reason we love wool for socks is the reason it works so well for the sheep on the hills; it keeps our body temperature regulated so we are not too hot, or too cold, and it helps us keep dry by wicking the sweat from our skin. Once we take our wool socks off our feet, all we have to do is air them out, and the wool will remain odor free through its antibacterial qualities, (helping us cut down on our laundry tasks).
Wool is also incredibly hard wearing and can withstand a lot of use, rather than plant based products like linen and cotton, which don’t have lofty cuticle fibres that connect together to form a fabric that is up to the job. Walking in shoes, boots, or Egyptian flip-flops, is heavy wear and tear for any fabric, but wool is more than up to the task, which is why it has always been the go-to choice for socks throughout time.
It needs nothing added to it; it’s simply the perfect choice for our feet.
A High Twist
A high quality wool sock is reliant on the spin of the yarn, and that is why a woollen spun yarn with a high twist is created for superior socks. Without the extra spin given to the wool in the mill, it would not have the durability that is required from a great pair of socks, as wool spun for sweaters is naturally more open and drapey.
Woollen spun yarn is also key to creating the best sock yarn. The fibres are not put through a second combing process that aligns them to make the smooth, silky worsted yarns. Instead, they are left in a more textured state before being spun.
Woollen spun has a natural ability to create extra insulation, as it traps the air within the interconnecting fibres, which also help to create a fabric that can withstand a lot of miles in a pair of walking boots.
The yarn is put through a spinning process that gives it a lot more twist than you would find in a skein of sweater yarn. The high spin starts the durable nature of sock heels before you even cast your project onto your needles, as it helps the interlocking cuticles connect before they are knitted. This extra twist also helps the woollen spun yarn feel smooth and comfortable against your skin, taking away any ‘itch factor’ that may cause skin sensitivity.
Why Nylon Was Added in the first place?
There is quite simply no need to add nylon to sock yarn, and it is a myth that it adds extra stability or durability that wool cannot offer.
As nylon is a plastic compound, it has a negative impact on the function of wool’s natural state.
Rather than allowing wool to wick moisture away from our skin and keep us warm, the coating it has over wool’s cuticles means that sweat stays in our sock, and insulation is taken away as the natural fibres can no longer trap air.
The result is a sock that is a little damp, not that warm, and rather smelly as the antimicrobial properties are stripped away by the plastic, which itself harbours bacteria.
Nylon was seen as a superior product; a plastic that was so fine that you couldn’t see it, but gave immense flexibility, strength and durability to any textile it was added to. It also protected clothes from the washing machines and dryers that were being developed at the same time. It also meant that the extra spin on wool was no longer needed, which made the process of spinning cheaper. Putting it all together was a marketing dream; socks with nylon, and nylon based knitting yarn, could be sold as cheaper, more durable and stronger.
Over time, nylon wasn’t even questioned for socks; it was seen as the only way to create a sock that could last that didn’t require care and attention when the fabric started to wear down.
Darning became a lost art, along with socks that went missing in the washing machines.
But the fallacy that nylon is needed for socks, or any type of textile, has started to be seen for what it is; a simple addition to fast fashion, and our throwaway idea of clothing.
Sustainable Socks
A quick Google search shows websites quoting the average figure of around 10 million socks being thrown away in Britain each year, with a person losing a pair a month (on average) due to holes forming in them.
Knitting socks may not be everyone’s cup of tea, but there is a need to start looking at the content of the sock yarn we knit with, as well as for the socks that we purchase from the shops. If each sock that is lost or thrown away each year in the UK alone is going to take over 200 years to compost due to their nylon components, which then pass into our eco-systems as micro plastics, we need to talk seriously about how the research into wool can be harnessed into our every day fashion choices.
My Choice Of Wool Blend
As a prized Welsh rare breed sheep, Llanwenog was the perfect choice for the main portion of the Nellie and Eve’s sock yarn base, ’Tread’. It’s a wonderful fibre for socks; a medium wool in the same class as Romney, it is known for its softness of touch, durability and flexibility, which means it feels wonderful to knit with, as well as wear! It is naturally creamy white and is a perfect clear base for my natural dyes, which I collect from the plants close to where the sheep roam.
I have chosen to blend the Llanwenog with a gentle touch of 10% Shetland, both wools being sourced from fleeces that originate within just three miles of my home. The Shetland wool has a soft crimp and silky texture, offering an added lustre to the yarn and your finished socks.
For the past year I have been talking with my local Welsh mill about how we can spin with the high twist that enables your heels and toes to stay strong. I am delighted with the result of all our hard work that has gone into creating a superior sock yarn, and I am confident that the socks that you knit with my yarn will take you on any adventure you want to put them through.
Until next time, tread softly,
Helen xx